Gather round, carnivore-lovers. There’s a feisty, young BBQ Kid in Dodge. From behind a spiffy, yellow awning, Salt+Smoke is spicing up the Delmar Loop in its location across from Joe Edwards’ iconic Blueberry Hill. But it’s the enticing, magnetic aroma of the Texas-style barbecue drifting from a smoker parked alongside the building that lassos your attention.
It was a sunny, noon hour and diners were enjoying the outdoor seating, but I wanted to get a feel for the interior space. One step indoors and you know this isn’t your run-of-the-mill, roadside barbecue joint. For starters, S+S has red-checkered, cloth napkins big enough to bib a bison and the décor is deliberately casual without being tacky.
The guy at the next table was eating a Cheddar Bacon Popover the size of a softball. I thought of asking if I could photograph it, but I didn’t want to embarrass my lunch companion.
I ordered the beef brisket at my server’s suggestion and chose the sweet pepper potato salad as a side. My friend opted for the pulled pork and pit beans. Before I could say, “By golly, Ollie, here comes the trolley,” our food was on the table. (Actually, the heritage trolley doesn’t arrive until next year, but I’m excited already.)
The plates were piled high with smoky, spicy goodness. Sitting in a window seat added to the ambiance, as we watched the sidewalk musicians and parade of folks enjoying a stroll along Delmar.
It’s worth mentioning that the bill didn’t make for indigestion. When owner Tom Schmidt says, “We are passionate about treating meat right,” you could add that treating customers right also comes in the package.
Sadly, we passed on dessert. We were lured away by free ice cream being offered at Ben & Jerry’s across the street.
Gotta go back to try that Cheddar Bacon Popover.
Salt and Smoke: 6525 Delmar Loop. Open: Tue-Sun. 11a-till close. Pulled pork, chicken, brisket, ribs are available by the pound. Sauces include Bestie, Hotangy, White BBQ, and Mustarolina. Kids menu available.
