Lamb Shank with turmeric couscous, broccoli, and massaman curry—a rich, relatively mild Thai curry. The ample, bone-filled plate could be a feast in a Medieval castle. I had a taste and it was, indeed, fit for a king.
Chef Bernie Lee has firmly planted his culinary roots in Clayton since closing Hiro’s Asian Kitchen downtown, which is where I first fell in love with his cooking. Fittingly, the name Akar means “roots” in Malay. Many of the menu items stem from Bernie’s childhood in Malaysia.
Patio Going Gangbusters
The upscale hole in the wall has seating for about a dozen inside. Akar’s intimate dining is supplemented by 30 more seats on their sidewalk patio along Wydown. A tantalizing menu hints of the robust flavors coming from the kitchen.
Thankfully, the restaurant is weathering the pandemic storm and coming back stronger than ever.
Look for the Horseman
Akar has some of the finest Asian cuisine around and is served in a setting akin to a Parisian-style street cafe. As a bonus, diners look out on the amusing artwork of the chubby man and horse portrayed by Fernando Botera, the famed Colombian artist. I call that Clayton-fusion.
When the pandemic struck, the “Chubby Man on Cubby Horse,” became the “Masked Horseman.”
Sharing Small Plates
Recently, Russ, Austin and I dropped by for an evening meal. Fortunately, there were a few tables left on the patio, which is where I prefer to dine these days. Every dish was well seasoned and impeccably crafted.
Pork Pot Stickers with citrus ponzu, (a thin, tart, citrus-based sauce commonly used in Japanese cuisine), and black rice vinaigrette.
Risotto with shitake mushrooms, edamame and scallions.
As Austin nibbled away at this side dish, he declared, “These are the best carrots I’ve ever eaten!” Bernie says kids who won’t eat carrots love these as much as their parents.
Rangoon “Ravioli” with sweet mango dipping sauce
Tempura Soft Shell Crab. Yes, you can eat the entire crab and it’s spectacular.
Chocolate ice cream with popcorn topping. Only Bernie would come up with such a delicious and whimsical dessert.
Chef/Owner Bernie Lee takes time out for a table visit. He explained to Austin that the carrots are roasted in vegetable oil and seasonings before being sautéed briefly. Vegetable oil, he says, unlike other oils, doesn’t mask the flavor of the carrots. Good to know.
Having Bernie’s place just minutes from my condo is cause for me to break into a Snoopy-style happy dance.
