Elegance.
Classical Dining
It’s not just the starched white napkins. Or the accommodating maitre’d. Or the effortless preparation of the Albanello Lobster swaddled in a creamy, mushroom sauce. At Tony’s, it’s the pride and it’s instilled in every employee and every dish. Lest anyone forget, the word is written large on a banner hanging in Tony’s world-class kitchen.
Yes, Vince Bommarito, Sr. and his family have maintained a first-class culinary team admired by many and duplicated by few. What started in 1946 as Tony’s Spaghetti House, a small cafe on North Broadway, is now a world-class restaurant located within the shadow of the Arch and boasting hundreds of awards for continued excellence.
Eating Downtown
This month our group of “Dining Women” (as we call ourselves), headed downtown, having earlier made a reservation at Tony’s. Though it was mid-week, the place was full mostly with out-of-towners. Even so, Ken Bollewark, manager of the dining room and Bommarito associate for 40 years, took time to visit and talk old times with our table of four locals.
As you would expect, servers assisted with our chair seating.They unfolded the starched white napkins and placed one gently upon each lap. We all like to be pampered occasionally and the servers at Tony’s know how to do it without fawning or intruding.
Pampered Luxury
Historic Trivia: The Bommarito family opened St. Louis’ first Italian bakery.
Tableside Preparations
I ordered the much lauded Albanello Lobster with chunks of shellfish, mushrooms and a divine, creamy sauce served over pasta. But the Osso Bucco beckoned me as well. In the end, my friend, Anne, got the Osso Bucco with the agreement we’d share each other’s entrees.
Our charming server warned that it would take a half hour to prepare the veal shank cooked in wine and broth. No problem, we all agreed. We could easily pass the time catching up, sipping wine, and nibbling on the tasty selection of breads.
Our entrees were assembled tableside with no great flourish, just calm, skilled workmanship in the Tony’s tradition. Great effort is made to soften every movement, no clanging dishes or utensils. Sound barriers and a specially engineered acoustical ceiling add to the calmness.
The Marrow Scoop
Osso Bucco with risotto. Marrow found in the hole of the veal shank is considered a delicacy. The dish is served with a narrow, elongated utensil much like those used by fastidious diners in the 18th century to extract the fatty marrow. It’s good spread on bread and best eaten hot, as it congeals and changes flavor if left to cool.
Tony’s Albanello Lobster. I lifted the last bit of sauce from my plate with a crust of bread and sighed with satisfaction.
The Final Indulgence
When the dessert menu appeared, we selected one item to share, as we often do. Our server said the Ice Cream Pie was the most frequently ordered desserts. Hmm. . . I thought, just what does it take to make an ice cream pie? A store bought pastry crust and some Ben and Jerry’s. How could this be so special?
Was I ever surprised when a wedge of mile-high-pie was set in the center of the table! A light crumb base provided the platform for a layer of ice cream topped with a lofty mound of meringue.
Oh, yes, there was a choice of toppings. We picked a chocolate and caramel sauce. More sweet sighs.
Vince, Sr. refers to those eating his food as his guests. He typically visits at their tables, though now that he’s in his late 80’s, the visits are less frequent. At Tony’s you ask for the bill when you’re ready to leave. There’s no attempt to give you one earlier, because that might indicate a desire to hurry you along.
Tony’s dining room manager, Ken Bollewark, points out some of the hundred of awards displayed in the restaurant office.
An After Dinner Treat
Lingering over coffee and dessert caused us to be among the final guests to depart. As we chatted with Ken, he offered to show us Anthony’s Bar, located in the lobby of the same building and run by James Bommarito—Vince Sr.’s son.
Though everything was closed for the evening, Ken said we could also view the snack bar, where pedestrians can grab a bite from Tony’s kitchen or self-scan a selection of quick-stop items. He noted that on nearby Broadway is the domain of another Bommarito sibling, Lucy Bommarito, who runs Tony’s A.M. Cafe, that serves freshly made soups, salads, sandwiches, and desserts.
“Anthony’s and the snack bar are in the lobby,” Ken said as we followed him along the hallway. “We can get there from this hall or take a shortcut through the kitchen.” Our eyes lit up like kids hearing the circus was in town. “Yes, definitely, we wanted to take the shortcut!”
The Kitchen Tour
How exciting to see behind the scenes of a world-class kitchen, where professional cooks work together with the precision of a well-rehearsed dance team. But we were a little late for that. When we stepped into the kitchen, they were in shutdown mode. Ken noted that everything would soon be spotlessly clean and ready for the next day—though it looked that way to us already.
Most intriguing was the metal podium and microphone, where instructions could be directed to any part of the workplace without having to physically interrupt the gastro-symphony that denotes a fine restaurant.
A Stop at Anthony’s
Upon seeing us at Anthony’s Bar, James Bommarito came over to visit before we headed home. Anthony’s is not your typical downtown watering hole. It’s an opulent barroom, a place to meet up with friends and business associates and have your car valet parked. At dinner, you can order from Tony’s menu for a more casual dining experience.
Stepping from the restaurant front door, we were greeted with a stunning view of the St. Louis Arch. The Bommaritos know how to cap a perfect evening!
Tony’s. 410 Market Street. Open: Tue-Thu 5:30p-9:30p; Fri-Sat 5p-10p. Owner: Vince Bommarito, Sr. family. Dining Room Manager: Ken Bollewark.
Anthony’s Bar. 410 Market Street. Open: Lunch, Mon-Fri 11a-2p; Dinner, Tue-Sat 5p-9p. Manager: James Bommarito.
