Shibo Maki and Spicy Tuna Roll
The Sushi Scene
I finally got a last-minute reservation at Sado! While the sushi is chilled, the reservations are a hot item.
If you’re into sushi, you know that chef/owner Nick Bognar has moved from Ballwin to The Hill. The relocation adds a new ethnic dimension to an area historically known for authentic Italian cuisine.
The Dream Team
Owner/Chef Nick Bognar was not there the night we dined at Sado. But there were plenty of chefs at the sushi bar.
Nick Bognar, the award-winning chef, encourages any skirmish diners to start with such items as crab Rangoon, vegetable tempura, sushi rolls, or gyoza and then move on to more adventuresome fare.
Good Sushi Reaps Rewards
Bognar added another kudu to his number of semifinalist recognitions with his recent James Beard nomination as “Best Chef: Midwest.” In 2020 he was pronounced “Best New Chef” by Food & Wine.
A Choice of Dining Areas
First of all, let me say that the sushi was everything I expected from the former owner of Nippon Tei. But when I return, I’ll ask for seating in the main dining room, rather than the bar area that turned out to be a bit noisy for conversation.
The younger generation can accept a higher level of decibels in a restaurant, but I prefer not to strain to hear the person on the other side of the table.
Fortunately, Sado has a more subdued dining area for those such as I, who prefer less gusto with their sushi. Outdoor dining is on the horizon.
These Culinary Maestros Makes Sushi Sing
The Sushi Bar seats eight. Take time to enjoy the art on the walls as well as in the kitchen, This painting of jelly fish swimming in a soft blue sea imparts an essence of Zen to the sushi bar.
I went with a few old favorites I’d enjoyed at Nippon Tei over the years: the gyoza, maki, sashimi, and tempura.
Dry-Aging
It’s Bognar’s dry-aging of the fish that enhances the texture and flavor. As of now, he’s the only chef in STL using a Japanese Yakatori grill, a flavor enhancing device that burns binchotan charcoal. (Binchotan is the purest charcoal available: a white, odorless, high carbon charcoal made from oak. It’s prized by chefs around the world.)
Gyoza
Broccolini Tempura
Robin and I shared this Wild-caught Yellow Tail Sashimi
Getting to Know Your Way around a Sushi Menu
All the sushi dishes are impeccably crafted and as good as I’ve ever had. Admittedly, I need to bone up on my sushi. It’s good to know the difference between sashimi, nigiri, and mahi.
So I downloaded an app that describes the various versions of the raw fish with pictures and ingredients. Here’s an online glossary of terms, that might be helpful before a visit. Although the Sado menu is very comprehensive.
Put this at the top of your dance card.
Handsome Space
A bird’s-eye-view of the Sushi Bar.
Funny Note: After a half hour of researching sushi on line, I turned to my BFF, Siri, with a question. I usually summon the online wizard with the request, “Hey, Siri.” But this time she didn’t answer. I felt she might be miffed at me about something. That is, until I realized I was saying, “Hey, Sushi.” She only answers to her exact name.
Sado. 5201 Shaw Avenue (formerly Giovanni’s). Open: Dinner: Tue-Thu 5p-9p; Fri-Sat 5p-10p; Sun 5-9p; Closed Monday. Other Bognar restaurants: Indo in the Botanical Heights area.
