St. Louis pizza Archives - Good Food St. Louis

Anthonino’s Taverna on the Hill

May 4, 2019

Austin and I split one of Anthonino’s award-winning pizzas and took home the leftovers. (Their smallest pizza is a 14-incher.)

I was cruising around The Hill recently and decided to stop for dinner at Anthonino’s Taverna. Good choice; bad timing. It was Saturday evening and people were standing around outside waiting for tables. We drove on.

But this week I was with my grandson, Austin, and we were near The Hill and looking for a lunch spot. We drove along Macklind and ta-da! There was a parking place right beside Anthonino’s! In we went.

An Italian-Greek Menu

Anthonino’s is a place that has so much goodness packed into its Italian-Greek menu, it’s hard to make a choice. I’m always drawn to their award-winning dishes: the Toasted Ravioli with Marinara Sauce and the House Salad. The salad is something of a Italian-Greek mélange. That’s not surprising since the Scarato brothers, who own the place, are of Italian-Greek heritage.

After much indecision, we decided to split a Ricotta Pizza, that comes topped with meatballs, mozzarella and pancetta.

Normally, I’m a Thin-Crust Gal

Now I’m a thin-crust gal and Anthonino’s is a medium-crust kind of place. Even though the crust is a little thicker than I normally order, it’s divine and as good as any I’ve ever had—anywhere!

Pizza is served on an elevated rack, which makes for a whimsical presentation, as well as extra space on the table. It’s fun to hoist a slice of pizza from the tray and watch the cheese cling and swirl as you wag it onto your plate, leaving a trail of toppings behind.

Anthonino’s award-winning Toasted Ravioli with house-made sauce and Romano cheese. Cited as Best Toasted Ravioli for 7-straight years by the Riverfront Times. This uniquely St. Louis dish was also featured on the Food Network Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.

The kitchen literally rolls out 5,000-7,000 raviolis each week.

The House Salad includes romaine lettuce, red onions, red bell pepper, tomatoes, pepperoncini, kalamata olives, feta, and English cucumber topped with a creamy Greek dressing.

The fun begins as Austin get the hang of removing a slice of Ricotta Pizza loaded with cheesy goodness.

The bar is original to the building, as are the hardwood floors, exposed brick, and pressed-tin ceiling.

There’s so many good reasons to return to Anthonino’s. I’ve yet to explore the Greek side of the menu, for heaven’s sake!—the saganaki, spanakopita, gyro, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves).

(Photo) Guy Fieri of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives visits Anthonino’s kitchen.

Anthonino’s Taverna, 2225 Macklind Avenue on The Hill. Open: Mon-Sat 11a-10p. Closed Sundays. Owners: Brothers Anthony and Rosario Scarato.

In Praise of Pizza

March 17, 2019

This pizza is not as big as it looks; it’s just the angle.

We all remember our first kiss and our first pizza. One may have even been decidedly more noteworthy than the other. 🙂

Pizza entered my life in the 50s at a small storefront cafe on 19th Street, NW, in Washington, near Dupont Circle. A place called Famous Luigi’s was opened in 1943, by Luigi Calvi, an Italian immigrant from Genoa. Luigi is thought to be the first restaurateur to bring pizza to the Nation’s Capital. The small cafe was lighted only by candles atop wine bottles, that sat on each of the red and white cloth-covered tables. In the far corner was a wall covered with dozens of colorful neckties. If Luigi was especially fond of a customer, he showed his regard by cutting off their tie and mounting it on the wall. (The cost of your meal was covered in the exchange.)

This covered street patio added years later maintained the original motif of the restaurant.

Love at First Bite

After that first pizza, I remember telling my mother, that I’d eaten the most heavenly tomato-cheese pie and asking if she could make one. She tried, of course, but I kid you not, I have never found a pizza to compare with Luigi’s. Years later, I returned with my children, telling them it would be their Best Pizza Ever. They smirked at my claim, that is, until they, too, became hooked on Luigi’s.

A 70 Year Run

When Luigi died in the early 60s, relatives came from Italy to take over the business. They lived “above the store,” until they turned the space into an upstairs dining area. The neighborhood survived the riots of the 1960s, and eventually became expensive commercial property.

Luigi’s pizza (Facebook photo)

In 2013, I read that Luigi’s was closing permanently, hanging up the ol’ pizza peels for the last time. I grieved the passing of Luigi’s like I would an old friend. But I took some consolation in learning that a niece of the second owner (the Bruzzo family) opened a place in Alexandria called Osteria Marzano. I’ve not eaten there yet, but it’s on my list.

What Was So Special About Luigi’s?

I’m thinking it must’ve been the balance of sauce to cheese to toppings. It was the perfect pie! Or, at least, in my memory.

As I thought of the many pizzas I’ve shared with friends and relatives, I pulled out some pizza photos from my file. (PIzza is often more photogenic than people. It loves showing off all its gooey goodness.)

Perhaps the photos will get you to thinking about local pizzas. Yes, there’s some mighty fine pies to be had right here in St. Louis and I’m a long way from having tried most of them. But I would love to hear what your favorites are and where to find them.