noodles Archives - Good Food St. Louis

Corner 17 Beats Covid 19

March 23, 2021

The first thing you notice upon approaching the tidy, noodle shop in the Loop is the bright green awning. But you might wonder why a restaurant named Corner 17 is not on a corner. Names often come with stories and this one does. Seventeen was the age of the owner, when he came here from China. It marked the turning of a corner in his life. I like that.

Oodles of Noodles

The first time I ate there, I was fascinated by the live show taking place in the kitchen. Behind the counter a very serious guy in a white cap was beating the daylights out of a mound of noodle dough. The show was visible to surrounding diners many of whom appeared to be international students—good sign.

Sadly, you won’t see the dough-making show during these COVID-cautious times. Today you call ahead and pick up your order outside at the customer window. Recently, Robin, JC and I ordered kelp, eggplant with brown sauce, a stir fry, and dumplings—-all as delicious as they were when we sat inside and watched the “Dough Man” perform.

Noodle stretching

Even so, I still miss watching the “noodle ballet,” that had all the grace and precision of a dance performance. Within minutes the noodle maker would fold, twist, throw, spin, chop, twirl, and stretch the bands of dough until they became long strings of noodles ready for a nearby pot of boiling water.

I was both amused and envious of Dough Man’s skills. (I’m sure he has a far more respectful and appropriate title than that—as well he should.) I also had my eye on the boiling pot, that was the size of a snare drum and perfect for oodles of noodles.

Noodle Dough Stretching

The Real Deal

Food bloggers overuse the word authentic, but I trot it out here because it truly fits. Too much of Chinese cuisine has been Americanized. But the aromas and tastes at Corner 17 remind me of those I enjoyed when I visited China for two weeks in the 80s.

Kelp

Noodle joints are becoming increasingly popular. This one also offers a large number of other flavorful Chinese dishes along with a fun assortment of bubble teas, and, hopefully, a return of the sideshow someday.

Kelp, vegetable and meat dumplings, and eggplant with brown sauce.

This took more skill than eating spaghetti.

Dumplings

Thai Chicken Pasta: A Bowl of Lively Noodles

June 5, 2018

Thai Chicken Pasta

When I think of pasta—and I that’s all too often—I think of Italy. But I’ve eaten noodles all over the world and for good reason: they’re safe, recognizable, flavor laden, and cheap. I’ve seen them combined with every imaginable food from land, sea and air. Yes, noodles adapt to any cuisine, are soothing to the traveler, and a standby in the home kitchen.

So when I ran onto this Thai Chicken Pasta—supposedly a riff on California Pizza Kitchen’s popular dish—I gave it a try. The ingredient list seemed reasonably healthy: carrots, napa cabbage, chicken, and onions. It didn’t involve anything more exotic than chili-garlic sauce, which I already had. The garlic, ginger, honey, soy and sesame oil meant the flavors would be lively.

Aggh! One Item Missing

Off I went to the store for the napa cabbage. But have you ever tried going to the grocery for one item? Unless you wear blinders, take only a change purse, or have a fussy two-year-old in tow, it can’t be done. I wound up with a couple grocery sacks of things that I needed—or though I needed. I excused myself, after all I’m a food blogger. Gotta have the resources of the trade.

Ready for the noodle addition

This dish is a breeze because you get to do two things at once. As you boil the noodles, you can assemble the remaining ingredients. Shoe stringing the carrots takes the most time. But don’t skip this step, because it adds a colorful shape and interest to the dish and reduces the cooking time.

As to the chicken, you can season and saute a few boneless chicken breasts in a skillet until golden and then cut them into 3/4″ pieces. Or you can tear apart a deli chicken with your bare hands. Your call. Recipe here.