Atomic Cowboy in The Grove is well-known for it Mexi-que mashup of South of the Border and barbecue cooking.
Atomic Cowboy puts on its Sunday best for brunch each weekend. By mid-morning, the hip watering hole, that hosted diners, dancers and live music the night before had shifted gears. The patio was quiet and relaxed. The large stage, outdoor bar, and adjacent tattoo parlor temporarily closed.
I went to Atomic on a recent Sunday morning because my grandson said I would enjoy the brunch menu, but I had also read a number of glowing on line reviews. It was 10:30-ish when my friends and I arrived. We had the large patio to ourselves and there was a refreshing breeze blowing through the wall of bamboo stalks near our table.
The well-thought out menu offered enough variety for most any taste. I went with the gussied-up, house-made veggie burger and my friends had the walnut bread toast and the eggs Benedict. Each dish was uniquely detailed to achieve just the right flavor and color combination.
Huevos Benedict and English muffin topped with poached egg, hollandaise and carne asada.
Housemade veggie burger topped with tomato jam, lettuce, fried onion, and jalapenos.
Tres leches walnut raisin bread topped with dulce de leche ice cream and side of fresh fruit salad.
A view from the front window at Atomic Cowboy
Our server, Jason, was chatty and helpful, so I asked about the restaurant’s name. It was named for some cowboy, who “rode a bomb in an old black and white movie,” he said. At first, I thought he was talking about a Charlie Chaplin or Groucho Marx flix. We finally figured out he was talking about Slim Pickens in the final scene from the 1964 movie, Dr. Strangelove—obviously, a film the young man had never seen.
Our server also explained the details of the large murals covering the brick buildings overlooking the patio. The paintings are the work of St. Louis artist “Killer Napkins”—aka Jason Spencer.
In the evening, I’d likely be two generations removed from the crowd that enlivens Atomic Cowboy. But The relaxed atmosphere on Sunday morniwas just my cup of tea.
Atomic Cowboy, 4140 Manchester Avenue in The Grove. Open: Daily 11a-3a; Brunch Sun 10a-3p.
