Hiro's Asian Kitchen Archives - Good Food St. Louis

Chef Bernie Lee touts his Malaysian Curry Chicken in a recent Facebook post.

I paused to drool over this photo of Malaysian Curry Chicken, a creation of Bernie Lee, the owner of Hiro Asian Kitchen. He was serving the tempting dish that night in his trendy Washington Avenue restaurant. I looked at my watch. It was about 7 o’clock and the place is located some distance from me in downtown St. Louis. It was too late for me to make the trip. And, besides, I didn’t want to miss Rachel Maddow.

Chef Bernie Lee happily concocts a stir fry dish several years ago at a house party.

What Would Ina Do?

As I gazed hopefully into the refrig, I shifted into Ina mode. What would the culinary goddess do? The veggie bin was crammed with carrots, corn, potatoes, spinach, squash, peppers, garlic and onions in various stages of aging.

Hmm. . . with my assorted vegetables, a few spices, and a can of garbanzo beans, I could make my own curry dish in time to watch Rachel. But, doggone it, I had no chicken.

Not to be Deterred

Nonetheless, I soldiered on. I chopped up a soffritto (garlic, onion, and ginger) and got it whizzing nicely in the skillet. Then I browned the chopped veggies, spices (curry powder, turmeric, red pepper flakes) and a bit of burger leftover from the previous night. I added a splash of chicken stock and let things simmer along for 10 minutes or so.

Normally, I’d cream up such a mélange with some coconut milk, but I was without. Instead, I added a jolt of Vietnamese nuoc mam, which always stokes the umami flavor. Though not as creamy as I would have preferred, the dish smelled and tasted divine. I had a big spoon of it plated and ready to eat just in time for the broadcast. (These days, one needs comfort food while watching the evening news.)

A one-skillet meal loaded with vegetables.

When I have coconut milk the dish turns out creamier.

My make-do “Clayton Curry Sans Chicken” (as I dubbed my creation) was quite good for a last minute concoction. Even so, I’m sure Bernie’s Malaysian Curry Chicken includes more exotic spices—and certainly some poultry parts. My inner-Ina tells me I should check out Bernie’s version the next time I’m at Hiro.

A review of 2017 shows that I’ve had some mighty good eating here in St. Louis with family and friends. It was hard, but I selected 16 culinary diamonds, that I swooned over at local restaurants. They’re shown in no special order. Let me know if you’ve found a local dish this year that rattled your taste buds.

Nathaniel Reid Bakery: French Sandwiches

Nathaniel Reid Bakery is a hidden gem tucked away in a strip shopping center on Manchester Road. The zippy, flavor-packed sandwiches come on freshly baked bread. There’s usually a crowd in the little French patisserie for a lot of sweet reasons.

The Shaved Duck: Fries with Cheese-Vegetable Topping

Vegetarian Smothered Fries from The Shaved Duck. Crispy fries smothered in homemade cheese sauce and topped with smoked jalapenos, Brussels sprout leaves, mixed peppers, onions, and smoked tomatoes. The hefty appetizer also comes in a meat version capped with pulled pork and rib meat. Downright seductive.

Das Olivas: Maple Bourbon Balsamic Vinegar

Di Olivas stocks an array of oils and vinegars in its three locations. I have become particularly fond of their Maple Bourbon Balsamic Vinegar, that’s good enough to drink straight from the bottle, but I resist, saving it for sauces and salads. Good stuff!

Brasserie: French Onion Soup

Brasserie serves up a crazy, tasty French Onion Soup, that will warm the cockles of your heart in a setting reminiscent of a Parisian cafe.

Cafe Natasha’s: The Eggplant Lover’s Platter

If you like Mediterranean-style eggplant—and I do—Cafe Natasha’s has a platter that includes pita bread; baba ghanoush (an eggplant dip); tart, smoky-flavored pomegranate eggplant; and kashke-bademjune (an Iranian dip).

Anthonino’s: Pizza

This four-cheese pizza from Anthonino’s, Greek-Italian restaurant on the Hill, is impeccably crafted and soul satisfying.

Nixta: Guacamole

Because of the ever-changing menu at Nixta, many of my favorites have rotated off the menu. But their guacamole is always there and a great delight.

Hiro’s Asian Kitchen: Kale Salad with Lemongrass-Citrus Dressing

I’m not a big kale fan. But at Hiro’s Asian Kitchen, Chef Bernie Lee has worked his magic on this dish with a citrus vinaigrette. Once brought to the table, never a leaf remains in the bowl.

House of India: Lunch Buffet

House of India serves an ample, moderately priced, and always delicious buffet for a feast of traditional Indian flavors.

Pepe’s Apt. 2: House Salad

Pepe’s in Kirkwood goes supernova on their house salad—one of the most scrumptious I’ve had recently.

Lemmon’s: Balkan Dipping Board

At Lemmon’s Bosnian-American restaurant, these light and addictive fritters come with a feta butter, roasted red pepper spread, and mushroom duxelle.

Nudo House: Soup

Nudo House serves awesome ramen, steaming with goodness, as well as sandwiches and spring rolls. A warm hug in a bowl.

Vicia: Tartine on Porridge Bread with Butternut Squash Soup

Who says healthy eating can’t be flavorful too? This tartine on porridge bread featured a butternut squash soffritto, marinated kale and mushrooms alongside Butternut Squash Soup with curry. Vicia’s ever-changing menu, assures adventure.