Modern Neighborhood Dining
I seldom say this. But whatever you’re doing, STOP now! Make a trip to Little Fox as fast as you can—or, at least, make a reservation. My kids and grandsons have been hawking this restaurant for sometime, but I’d not been. Last week we arranged a meetup. It was a splendid evening so we sat on the covered, pleasantly arranged patio—one of the most inviting I’ve seen anywhere.
Grandson’s Advice: “You’ll Love It All”
I’d checked the menu on line, as I often do before going to a new restaurant. It leans Italian, but with some Mediterranean going on. For some reason the titles on the dishes didn’t have that much appeal to me. I mentioned this to Andrew, who said to ignore the food names and descriptions. “Just order. You’ll love it all!”
A Feast of Flavors
Well, as is often the case, my grandson was right. The scrumptious appetizers and entrees were beyond description. I got some photos that tell the story of the evening. (Be sure to read the captions to learn more about the chef’s whimsical play with flavors.)
My dinner companions: Robin, Jacci, Andrew, and JC, who is outside photo.
Crispy Summer Vegetables feature corn-flour battered green tomatoes, banana pepper, scallion, eggplant, provolone, and lemon with basil yogurt.
Carne Cruda. ingredients include Slagel Farm beef, pickled fennel, shallot, herbs, mustard seeds, pecorino Romano, and carte di musica (a thin, Sardinian cracker.)
Herb Cavatelli with house-made cavatelli noodles, fennel, roasted cauliflower, pecorino Romano, and toasted breadcrumbs.
Heirloom Tomatoes with shaved pickled beets, fennel, Tuscan olive oil, toasted seeds and anchovies.
This dish of Royal Trumpet Mushrooms includes grilled Ozark mushrooms, soubise, (an onion sauce thickened with a Béchamel), frisée, (a curly endive leaf), sherry vinaigrette, and chive oil.
Flatiron Steak with tallow butter (a dairy-free beef fat), crispy potatoes, grilled Romano beans, wilted arugula, and pesto rosso (a Sicilian pesto).
Bolognese Bianco made with bucatini noodles, pork and mushroom Bolognese, summer pesto, pecorino Romano, and toasted breadcrumbs.
Crema Catalana with citrus, cinnamon, burnt sugar crust, marcona almond tuile (a delicate cookie that can be wrapped or filled with goodies). The dessert is one of Spain’s oldest and most beloved. Upper right: Wild Blueberry Cake with maldon crumble and creme anglaise (a cousin of creme brulee).
Little Fox: 2800 Shenandoah Ave. (across from Fox Park). Hours: Tue-Thu 5p (last seating 8:30). Fri-Sat 5p (last seating 9:30p.
