Restaurant Reviews Archives - Good Food St. Louis

We devoured this Mushroom Wheatberry dish so quickly that I barely had time to get a photo.

Stop and Go!

I don’t say this often. But whatever you’re doing: Stop! Make a reservation to eat at the Lucky Accomplice.

Okay, I know it’s a “fer piece” for many of you county folks, but it’s well worth the trip.

The center piece of the elongated space is the bar with seating for walk-ins and small plate courses. An open-door kitchen anchors the back of the restaurant, while attractive tables and booths span the entrance. Lucky Accomplice opened in 2020 with Sauce magazine naming it the Best New Restaurant that year.

A New American Menu

The dark decor is handsome without being bleak. The dimness might even give a romantic setting for some, depending on your age and companion. Our servers, (there were 3 throughout our meal), pleasantly and patiently guided us through the two-prong menu. One menu offered small dishes suitable for sharing. The other a 7 or 14-course tasting experience.

To get in on Saturday night, we had to take a 5 pm reservation, so it’s best to plan ahead.

Braised Beet Salad with Whipped Burrata, Farm Greens, and Apple

Dishes to Swoon Over

There were three of us: Robin and our friend, Nina, who had gifted me the night out. We settled on a number of small dishes to share.

Focaccia Bread with spreads of Chard Stem Mostarda, Bread and Butter Pickles, Roasted Eggplant Hummus, and Butter.

Chicken Thigh with Cabbage, Smoked Chili Oil, and Peanuts

Granny Smith Sorbet with Tarragon.

It Was a WOW! Evening

As we drove home, I asked Robin what she had liked best of the many plates.

“It was all so good, it’s hard to say. But the mixed mushrooms with wheatberries was stellar.” Fortunately, we have some wild mushrooms in the farm freezer, so I suspect that before long she’ll be trying to replicate the dish.

“Oh, and that dessert,” she added. “It was definitely not an afterthought.”

Lucky Accomplice. 2501 S. Jefferson Avenue; Open: Wed-Sat 5 pm-10 pm. Street parking only.

“I’m Off on the Road to Morocco!”

I always hum the catchy tune as I head out Manchester to The Benevolent King. I mention the song, knowing that most of my readers have no idea what I’m talking about. After all, the Bob Hope/Bing Crosby/Dorothy Lamour “road shows” came out during The War.

One verse in the ’40s ditty ends: “Like Webster’s Dictionary, we’re Morocco bound.” That line was funnier in the day of leather bound books, than it is in the day of auto spell checking.

The Poremba Food Kingdom

Owner Chef Ben Poremba in his tiny kitchen at The Benevolent King. The Maplewood restaurant has about 28 seats—but more seating when it’s nice enough to eat outdoors.

The Benevolent King is the brainchild of prolific restauranteur, Ben Poremba, who serves up authentic Moroccan fare and more. Herbs and spices of the region are added to the food, but each dish bears his signature touch of frivolity. You might call it the “Poremba Twist.”

In a sense, Ben is returning to his roots—the food he ate in his mother’s kitchen—but with an overlay of his highly-applauded and much-awarded creativity.

Memories of Morocco

Aboard a wet camel in Tangier, Morocco.

Put your taste buds on pause, while I reminisce a bit. Years ago, I was in Tangier, Morocco, briefly, and still have fond memories of the African city with the gorgeous coastal views.

Shopping at the street bazaar was a grand adventure for a wide-eyed tourist, as was sitting on pillows, savoring exotic new dishes.

I definitely remember the humpy-bumpy ride on a very wet camel at the tourist “camel-go-round”—it had just rained. My dromedary and I bonded along the path as we took on a common smell.

Okay, so much for the memories. Forgive me, I didn’t mean to turn this review into a travelogue. Back to the main event . . . .

The Benevolent King pays tribute to a former Moroccan monarch known for his kindness. What a clever idea! I like names that are anchored in history. Kudos to Ben for coming up with a restaurant name I don’t have to think about to spell or pronounce:

Observations

The Benevolent King reminds me of those French cafes with their undersize kitchens and cozy dining rooms. It all goes to prove Ben can turn anyplace into fine dining space if given some vegetables, a stove, and a few spices.

The menu changes periodically according to the season and Ben’s inspiration.

(See menu glossary at end of post.)

Salatim: (left to right) babba ganoush, zaalouk, and charred tomato

Roasted Carrots with charred cabbage, yogurt, and pistachios

Lamb meatballs with smoked tomato sauce, ras al hanout

Split pea falafel, burnt eggplant, yogurt

Hokkaido scallops, koshihikari rice, wakame-herb salad, harissa butter

I didn’t get the name of this dessert. It’s possibly the Malabi. Whatever it was called, JC devoured it with great gusto.

As Night Falls

The Benevolent King. 7268 Manchester Road in Maplewood. Open: Tue-Thu 5p-9p and Fri-Sat 5p-10a. Closed Sun-Mon.

Glossary of Terms Shown Above

Salatim: Hebrew word for salad or cold dips eaten with bread.
Babba Ganoush: Similar to hummus, but uses grilled or roasted eggplant instead of chickpeas.
Zaalouk: An eggplant-tomato salad eaten with Moroccan bread.
ras al hanout: Moroccan spice mix
Hokkaido Scallops: Considered the best scallops in the word (also called Japanese scallops). Most coveted for their size, meatiness, and flavor.
Wakame: Seaweed salad
Koshihikan Rice: A short grain Japanese rice
Harisssa Butter: A sauce or paste of dry red chilies, garlic and warm spices.
Labna: Chocolate chip cake, thick creamy, and tangy made of double strained yogurt
Malabi: A milk pudding perfumed with rosewater. Popular Middle East dessert.