Diners and Delis Archives - Page 2 of 7

Carl’s Drive In: Nostalgia in Every Bite

December 28, 2019

At Carl’s Drive In, it’s better to get the double burger, since the single is far too thin.

I eat at Carl’s about once a year. Today I was driving out Manchester with Robin and JC during the noon hour. A parking place had just turned over in front of the iconic hamburger joint—a rarity at that time of day. Feeling the culinary gods were beckoning us onward, we pulled in.

Packin’ ’em In

The petite burger palace was packed. Maybe folks had finished off all the Christmas leftovers. Perhaps they were wanting to squeeze in something heartwarming before taking on a drastic diet for the New Year.

After a short wait, we climbed onto one of the 16 counter stools that flanks the open kitchen. As I settled in, I looked around to see if anything had changed at Carl’s since my last visit.

It hadn’t.

Carl’s maybe mini, but its burgers are mighty.

The Charm of It All

As always, the same two women were smashing burgers and serving them on flimsy paper plates with a side of pickles. The bubble gum dispenser sat in the same spot on the counter. As usual, fries came in a paper boat and the extra catsup arrived before the burger and in a pleated pill cup.

A Stroke of Genius

Yes, it’s good to know that some things don’t change, which is the charm of Carl’s Drive In. Besides, where else can you find a smashed burger, IBC root beer, and Ted Drewes’ frozen custard all on the same menu? It’s a stroke of genius, I tell ya . . . a stroke of genius.

The crispy smashed burgers start as golf ball-size chunks of ground beef.

The devoted crew at Carl’s smears each burger ball onto the sizzling grill with a spatula and cooks them until the edges are dark and crispy.

Burger balancing is an art form.

The decor in the dinky diner reflects its 1940’s roadside origins. There are 8 swivel seats on each side of the open kitchen and often someone waiting directly behind you to take your place at the counter.

The small Christmas tree that hangs upside down from the ceiling adds a seasonal touch. The Cash Only policy (written on the wall) is observed year round.

Writer and chef J. Kenji Lopez-Alt called the cheeseburger he had at Carl’s one of the 11 best things he ate on his cross-country trip.

Next year when I make my annual pilgrimage to Carl’s, I’m adding grilled onions to my burger order. Hmm. . . I may have to make those semi-annual visits.

Carl’s Drive In. 9033 Manchester Rd. in Brentwood. Open: Tue-Sat 11a-8p. Note: Cash only; no credit cards or checks. Trivia: The place opened in 1951 as Breeden’s Good Food Drive-In, was sold and became Carl’s Drive-In in 1959, and changed hands again in 2015. The site began as a Lubrite Service Station in 1918, which means there’s been business conducted on this corner of Manchester Road for the last 100 years.

(This post has been updated from October, 2018)

Gioia‘s Deli: Home of the Award-Winning Hot Salami

January 27, 2019

My Hot Salami sandwich gets its finishing touches. (Hmm. . . I wonder if this guy’s friends call him Mr. Sand Man?”)

“What’s your most popular sandwich?” I asked the guy behind the counter at Gioia’s Deli in Creve Coeur. (Gioia’s is pronounced Joy-ya’s),

“It’s the Hot Salami,” he said without hesitation and a bit of pride. “It won a James Beard Foundation award.”

Wow, I was impressed already, but the sandwich looked huge. I hesitated.

“Get the half sandwich, half salad,” he suggested.

“Perfect!”

“On white, whole wheat, or garlic cheese?”he asked. I went with the latter.

“Provel, pepper jack, Mozzarella or Swiss?”

Showing my non-St. Louis roots, I skipped the provel and went with the mozzarella.

His task complete, he passed my warm salami and cheese to the guy at the end of the counter.

The Creve Coeur outpost, opened last year, marking the 100th year of Gioia’s on The Hill and its third location.

Gioia’s salami is ground fresh from pork snouts and beef and sliced to order. Bread, cheese, and condiments are sourced on The Hill within a few blocks of the original Gioia’s. Once a grocery store, that later turned deli, the building is said to have been built with bricks and wood from the 1904 World’s Fair.

Topping Off the Sandwich

I pondered all this history, as I moved toward the next sandwich handler at the end of the counter.

“Toppings?” he asked, pointing to an array of possibilities.

“Which do you suggest?”

“All of ’em!”

“Let’s go for it,” I said.

“Sauce?” he asked, hovering over the creation with a squirt bottle.

“Definitely!”

The award-winning Hot Salami sandwich lives up to its fame.

Handing me the heavily-wrapped sandwich and a carryout carton filled with salad, the sandwich man pointed me toward the checkout counter near the door.

Tables in the window were full, but there were places turning over at the high counters in the center of the room. I wiggled my way aboard one of the stools (never a pretty sight) and Cyndy joined me after getting her roast beef half n’ half.

The Roast Beef sandwich is the 2nd most popular order at Gioia’s deli

When I’m in a new restaurant, I tend to look around to see how the layout, menu, colors, logo, and service might be improved. It’s just a game I play in my head. At Gioia’s, I though it might be smoother to have the order line nearer the entrance. But I soon dismissed the idea as I turned my full attention to the magnificence of that Hot Salami! No changes needed there! It was perfection no matter where the line began.

I concluded that, like Crushed Red, after you’ve been to Gioia’s a few times, you master the system and are even able to help confused first timers.

In St. Louis, if you get the urge for a Hot Salami sandwich, there’s likely a Gioia’s Deli within driving range.

Put this family-owned, Italian deli on your list.

Gioia’s Deli: LOCATIONS: The Hill, 1934 Macklind at Daggett, open: Mon-Sat 10a-4p; Downtown: 903 Pine Street, open: Mon-Fri 10:30a-2:30p; Creve Coeur, 623 N. New Ballas, open: Mon-Sat 10a-4p.