A pyramid of pomme frites from Chez l’Ami Louis in Paris. Some have called French fries “the highest expression of the humble potato.”
Now I’m picky about fries. Some are too soggy, too crispy, or over salted. I don’t eat fries often, but when I do, I want them to be worth the indulgence.
The Quintessential French Fry
One of my travel delights was eating French fries at Chez l’Ami Louis, the place NYT’s food writer Ruth Reichle once called “the world’s most famous bistro. A small, shabby place (12 tables) with peeling brown walls and shaky chairs, that opened in 1930 and has resolutely resisted change.”
From the looks and taste of their potato pyramid, there’s no need to tamper with success.
Chez l’Ami Louis, sitting like a rose among thorns, is a haven of fine food in Paris.
A Good French Fry Is a Beautiful Thing
I want my French fry to be crispy on the outside, but not too crispy. Fluff on the inside, but not gummy. Lightly colored, but without dark spots.
So far, here in St. Louis, The Brasserie serves my fries of choice. The Central West End bistro checks all the right boxes for me.
French fries at The Brasserie
I’m sure there are other super fries in the area, that I’ve not tried. I’d like to whittle down the list of possibilities.
I don’t want to “kiss a lot of frogs fries” before I find the Prince of Pomme Frites. So if you’ve found some grand fries worthy of mention, speak out.
Hendel’s in Old Town Florissant serves really good fries. My mom says they are the best she’s ever had, and she’s an 89-year-old daughter of a Maine potato farmer! They also have a large, lovely patio to enjoy if it ever warms up. https://www.hendelsrestaurant.com/
For ‘regular’ and sweet potato fries I give Lester’s on Clayton Rd. in Ladue a nod.