Colombian Loma al Trapo highlights any buffet.
Hold You Breath; Cross Your Fingers
The first time I watched JC, my Colombian-born son-in-law, cook Lomo al Trapo, I panicked. Lomo al Trapo is one of the most uniquely prepared cuts of meat I’ve ever had. The novice fears for the outcome of the beef tenderloin, a cut that can run the price of a fine French Bordeaux. Rather than risk an emotional meltdown, it’s best to have a Colombian on hand for your first attempt.
The Drama Begins
Like roasting a suckling pig or flaming a Baked Alaska, this dish is not for the faint of heart. When I gently handed over the uncooked tenderloin to JC, he sensed my concern. He patted me on the hand, and said, “Trust me.” With that, my suspicions only heightened.
I gasped as he placed the prime cut of meat on layers of cheesecloth and sprinkled it with cups of salt. (Yes, I said cups, not tablespoons!)
Despite the large amount of salt used to form the outer cast, the meat is not salty tasting.
Fear Strikes!
As the sweat began to form on my forehead, JC wrapped the tenderloin tightly in the salt-lined cloth and tied it securely with string. I warned him that the meat would be far too salty and inedible. He smiled and continued on his mission, while I began thinking of an alternative way to feed 15 people.
Pacing the Floor
Just when I thought nothing else could be more weird, he took the dampened bundle, walked over to the fireplace, and tossed it in like he would a stick of wood!
During those first few minutes, I paced the floor in front of the hearth as he reclined calmly in a nearby chair, sipping a glass of wine.
Seeing the centerpiece of my dinner party lay smoldering in cinders was more than I could handle. I headed for the refrigerator to access the lunch meat selection.
All It’s Cracked Up to Be
Some 30-40 minutes later (cooking time depends on the how hot the fire is), JC pulled the charred chunk from the embers. By some culinary miracle, the wrap of cheesecloth and salt had been transformed into a hard cast.
My heart raced as JC approached the newly formed “log” with chisel and hammer in hand. He made a few chops to the casing and it fell away, like a plaster cast from a healed limb.
A Sigh of Relief
My jaw dropped! Before my eyes was a moist, perfectly seasoned tenderloin, medium done on the ends and beautifully pink in the middle. The saline wrap had formed its own protective “oven,” keeping the meat moist and tender, but not salty. Applause all around.
We had Lomo al Trapo!
Below are some of the photos of our early efforts. Renown Chef J. Kenji Lopez-Alt shows more extensive photos and instructions here.
Many hands make quick work. The meat is coated with at least a half inch of salt before being wrapped in a small, thin towel, or cheesecloth.
The bundled tenderloin gets a water bath in preparation for cooking. The name “Lomo al Trapo” means “beef tenderloin in a towel.”
The big “burrito” is tied securely and tossed in an open fire. We usually use the farm fireplace, but this time the weather was good enough to use the open firepit outdoors.
Remove when the meat is about 95-degrees for rare; 105 degree for medium rare. Let sit for 10 to 20 minutes to allow the meat to reach its full cooking temperature.
Getting ready to crack the shell.
Some “carpentry” required.
Ooh . . the joy!
Only a true Colombian knows how easy this 3-ingredient dish can be. (The potatoes shown here are among the 800, or more, varieties grown in Columbia.)
Colombian pan de yucca makes a good companion.
I am too faint of heart and a beef tenderloin novice to attempt this, but it looks heavenly in taste and simplicity. Excellent use for a fire’s final stages.