It’s been a few years since I ate on the top floor of the Four Seasons. Cielo, an Italian restaurant, had the space then.
When Cielo folded, celebrated restaurateur Gerald Craft (Brassiere, Sardella, Pasteria, Taste) moved in. He remodeled the lofty, 8th-floor setting and opened as Cinder House. You might say, the 2015 James Beard Award-winning chef took his culinary empire to new heights. Diners not only have a grand menu, but a splendid view of the Mississippi River, the Arch, and downtown St. Louis.
Chef Craft uses a wood-fired oven to prepare meats and vegetables, many of them with a South American twist. Inspiration came from his Brazilian nanny, who cooked for him as a child. Pao de queijo, or “Dia’s Cheese Bread,” is one of his beloved recipes. The classic Brazilian bread was a favorite at Niche and returns on the menu at Cinder House.
Cinder House. 999 N. Second Street in the Four Seasons hotel (8th floor). Open: Breakfast: 6:30a-1:45 daily; Lunch: 11a-2:30p daily; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5p-10p; Sun 5p-9p. Owner: Gerard Craft. Brazilian inspired menu.