Robin and I pondered where to go for dinner.
“What are you in the mood for?” I asked.
Without missing a beat, she replied, “Mushroom Tagliolini.”
Right away, I knew that meant Acero. We turned the car and headed toward Maplewood, where the best Mushroom Tagliolini can be had in the modern Italian restaurant on Manchester. Interestingly, two of the best places in town for fine dining are located side by side: Acero and Benevolent King.
Acero emulates the Italian enoteca, a small wine bar or cafe found in some regions of Italy.
It was midweek so there were a few remaining tables, when we scooted in there around 7:30. While the place can be a bit noisy when full, I forgive all that in return for what their website calls “robust, rounded, refined” dining.
This evening Robin went with the 4 courses for $40—a bit of a bargain at Acero—and a meal that she was willing to share with me. I was getting just an entree, the ragu of the day: Spaghetti Bolognese.
As it turned out, the sauces were delicate and well seasoned and the homemade noodles as good as I’ve had anywhere. Each bite of salad was a pleasant surprise, an amalgam of tastes and textures. Even the complimentary bread was noteworthy.
Crudo (raw seafood) capped with shallots, pea shoots, bottarga (cured fish roe), olive oil and sea salt. Crazy tasty! Don’t miss this one!
Spaghetti Bolognese. Acero prides itself on serving fresh, unprocessed, and farm-to-table fare.
There were a lot of good things going on in this Fall Salad: Brussels sprouts, radicchio, pear, kale, cherries, walnuts, pecorino, and walnut vin.
Mushroom Tagliolini, a tangle of house-made noodles sauced with wild mushrooms, shallot, brown butter, and parmigiano. Downright seductive!
Dessert is not a minor event at Acero. The sweet offerings are highlighted on a separate menu—a placement rightly deserved. We went with the Apple Cider Zeppole described by our server as an Italian-style donut. I thought it leaned more toward an apple beignet. But a rose by any other name. . . . It was exquisite!
Apple Cider Zeppole features a deep-fried Italian pastry with an apple puree and cider reduction.
Put Acero on your bucket list. It’s a great place to take a date or out-of-town guests, that you want to impress with St. Louis cuisine. Or just grab a divine plate of Mushroom Tagliolini, when the urge comes over you.
Acero.7266 Manchester Road in Maplewood. Open: Mon-Thu 5p-9p; Fri-Sat 5p-10p. Acero: Savor the Flavor.
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