Dining Women ready for a meal at Billie Jean on Wydown.
One of the cardinal rules of decorating is that small rooms look bigger if painted a light color. Billie Jean has violated that biggly (as POTUS might say). The petite space, that once housed a yogurt shop is now painted black, inside and out, ceiling and floor with only the tables shrouded in white and topped with a fern sprig. But the tall ceiling, large window, and framed black/white art make the space work.
Happy diners
In case you blinked and missed it, the 28-seat restaurant is snuggled between Sadie’s Alterations and Protzel’s Deli on Wydown. It’s as though owner-restaurateur Zoe Robinson wanted to create a darkened hideaway known only to the culinary cognoscenti. . . .
But Word Has Leaked Out
This week my group of Dining Women wrangled a reservation to the new hot spot. We approached the shadowy entrance like we might a speakeasy in the 1920s to be admitted upon recognition.
But once inside, rather than feeling claustrophobic, I was pleasantly relaxed by the elegant decor and warm welcome of staff and Zoe, herself, who was greeting diners and seeing to their wellbeing. I felt like something special was about to happen and I wasn’t disappointed.
Billie Jean is small without feeling cramped. Note the server on far left wearing a black uniform tee reading “Lover,” (other shirts say “Not Your Lover”), a subtle recounting of the conflict from Michael Jackson’s 1980 song, Billie Jean.
We ate later than usual (our reservation was for 7:30). As it darkened outdoors, the inside light softened to a warm glow.
Thanks, Barbara!
A St. Louis friend, Barbara Moore Ottolino (once a youngster in my Rolla neighborhood) had graced me with a dining gift card. As I perused the menu, I was immediately attracted to the baked quail. I had a culinary flashback of eating game birds with friends years ago—he shot ’em; she served ’em. We had to pick a few pieces of buck shot from the meat, but that just showed it was freshly acquired.
At the last minute, though, I put my nostalgia aside and switched to the smaller plate of duck spring rolls and the root vegetable salad. My table mates agreed to share the ribs and eggplant.
An abbreviated offering, but a good range of choices. Between the four of us, we tried nearly half the items on the menu!
The first plate to arrive was a stunning complimentary dish, a Yellow Fin Tuna Crudo, artistically delivered along with a platter of thin slivers of fried bread.
Our server referred to the table bread as a pancake. It reminded me of Socca, a Mediterranean bread made with chickpea flour. Delish!
Lemongrass, Lime Leaf and Pork Shrimp Dumpling Soup
Mahogany Glazed Spare Ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender and tasty
Duck Spring Rolls with sweet chili soy
Sesame-lacquered Japanese Eggplant with Crispy Tofu
Observations
I would go back again tomorrow, if only for the ribs, which come with a smartly folded stack of slightly moist cloth napkins. Nice touch. But there are a lot of good reasons to put BJ’s on your special list. The place has the feel of an intimate 20th century cafe, but with a cutting edge menu. Zoe and her team have put great heart into creating the ambiance of another era as well as the preparation and service of fine food. The little things show—even in the dark..
The restaurant is a salute to Zoe’s parents and a pairing of their names. A fine tribute.
Billie Jean. 7610 Wydown in Clayton. Open: Tue-Sat 5p; Executive Chef: Ny Vongsaly; Owner: Zoe Robinson (I Fratellini, Bar Les Frere). Reservations needed 314-797-8484.
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