Grace Meat + Three

Now, I’ve heard of “grace notes.” I learned about them from the mandatory piano lessons of my youth. The quickly played embellishments roll into the main note, adding a touch of frivolity to a musical score . . . . 

But What Is Grace Meat?

I pondered the question as I headed toward The Grove last week to eat in one of its heavily-hyped new restaurants: Grace Meat +Three. Since opening last fall, Chef Rick Lewis and his wife, Elisa, have settled nicely onto the corner where Sweetie Pies once dished up iconic soul food.

Lines Move Quickly

To lessen the wait, Rick was on hand, working the line of patrons with the skill of a seasoned politician. With a broad smile and a twinkle in his eye, Rick explained the flavor nuances of downhome cooking. He noted that Bacon-wrapped Duck Meatloaf was the featured dish of the day. Tempting though it was, I passed up the meatloaf, the chicken livers, fried chicken, sweet tea-brined turkey leg, and the St. Louis-style Durock pork ribs and went with the Mississippi catfish + two sides, instead of three.

The rotating seasonal sides include such country delicacies as cornbread, whipped potatoes, mac and cheese, hoppin’ John, collard greens, marinated beets, and grilled broccoli. I picked the red cabbage and baked cauliflower. 

“Hot” or “Not”?

The woman taking the orders at the walk-up counter asked if I wanted the catfish “hot” or “not”?

“How hot is “hot?'” I asked.

“Let’s just say it can bring tears to the eyes of a grown man.”

Not wanting to streak my eye makeup, I went with the “not hot” and found it pleasantly seasoned. One of my lunch friends happily seized the chance to eat a plate of chicken livers midday. The other got a humongous catfish sandwich with the Comeback Sauce. Since he loved that sauce so much, I found a Southern Living version on the Internet. The versatile sauce originated years ago in MIssissippi, where it’s considered the “Queen Mother of Condiments.” I’ve added a recipe at the end of this blog.

Comfort Food Served in Relaxed Surroundings

As we settled at one of the round, wooden tables, I quickly scanned the place. I’m big on first impressions and was getting good vibes already. The dining room had the feel of a hunting lodge with its dark, painted walls, wood trim, and wild turkey mounted whimsically above the fireplace. 

Southern Style and Gracious Hospitality

In no time at all, a pleasant server arrived at our table with a tray that subs for a plate at Grace Meat. Meanwhile, Rick—ever the good host—was making table rounds, checking on the wellbeing of his guests. There were thumbs up all around, though I later chided him playfully for having too few raisins in the bread pudding. The red cabbage reminded me of a favorite I make from an old Arkansas recipe and the roasted cauliflower took the bland vegetable to artisanal heights. 

Yes, Grace Meat + Three may have the look of a hunting lodge, but the tastes and aromas are those you remember from momma’s kitchen.

 

Comeback Sauce

Ingredients:

• 1 cup Duke’s mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup Heinz chili sauce
• 2 Tbs. ketchup
• 1 Tbs. lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire
• 1 tsp. smoke paprika
• 1 tsp hot sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Combine all ingredients in a blender and puree. Refrigerate 30 minutes or overnight. Serve with peel and eat shrimp, fried oysters, crab cakes, grilled fish, sandwich spread, iceberg lettuce, fish tacos, French fries, burgers, Reubens, fried green tomatoes, or crudités. Thin a bit with olive oil for a salad dressing.

Makes 1 1/2 cups. Keeps in refrigerator for a week.

Grace Meat + Three: 4270 Manchester in The Grove. Open: Wed-Sun 11a-8p. Closed Mon-Tue.

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