Whenever I go into a seafood restaurant, I have a flashback. It’s not that I had a bad experience at some time or another. Actually, it conjures up fond memories of eating my first seafood meal at Hogate’s in Washington DC. when I was a youngster.

At Hogate’s Seafood in 1969 during a visit to my parents. (Randy, Russ, Robin and me holding Tom.)
My parents didn’t go out to eat more than several times a year. So it was a grand occasion to dine at the 600-seat, restaurant overlooking the Potomac and in view of the Washington monument. The place was much revered in the 50s and 60s in the Capital City. Some used to say there were two Washington monuments and one of them was Hogate’s.
A Seafood Tsunami
The Mariner’s Platter was the real meal deal—a large plate heaped with fried flounder, deviled crab, clams, a fried oyster, deep sea scallops, shrimp salad, coleslaw and fries. It was like you had to have a taste of everything in the sea.
But nothing was more eagerly anticipated then the free rum buns—moist and plump with gooey cinnamon-rum icing. (Actually, the buns were flavored with rum-extract, but still considered by some as too “intoxicating” for children.)
All this crossed my mind recently, as I ate with my neighbors at Oceana Bistro in Clayton. The menu is far healthier than the all-fried seafood I recall from Hogate’s. And as Martha Stewart would say, “That’s a good thing.”
Coastal Flavors Come Ashore in Downtown Clayton
In the heart of the Midwest, Oceana Bistro aspires “to serve the coastal flavors to those who don’t live by the coastal regions.” And well they do. The corner bistro offers laid back dining space and a top-notch menu that would make King Neptune himself feel at home.
Seats range from those as the spiffy bar to cozy booths and window tables, that open onto the street. Warm up your appetite with their signature seafood chowder or soup du jour before chomping down on one of the land or sea entrees.
Or turn an appetizer into a meal with the house favorite: crab cakes, fluffy and unmasked by excessive filler or spices. But whatever you order at this inland oasis, you can count on premier seafood with up-to-date preparation and lively side dishes to match. And because a picture is worth a thousand words, grab your mouse and let’s scroll. . . .

A cup of New England Seafood Chowder with peekytoe crab, smoked tomato butter, and scallions.

Maryland Lump Crab Cakes with sherry butter and chipotle aioli

A side dish of Grilled Seasonal Vegetables

Bistro Market Salad with potato straws, tomatoes, onion, gorgonzola, and balsamic vinaigrette. This is the small version, which is quite ample.

Alaskan Halibut with black lentils, mushrooms, green beans, asparagus, and corn over mushroom butter sauce.

Scallops with a velvety texture.

Rainbow Trout

Oceana Bistro at the corner of Brentwood and Maryland.

Sitting at a window table earlier this year with my friend Lucy. Having the windows open on a pleasant day gives the feel of a street cafe.
Oceana Bistro. 41 N. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton. Open: Mon-Thu 11a-10:30p; Fri-Sat 11a-11p; Sun 10a-10p. Happy Hour: Mon-Fri 4p-6:30p; Sat 2p-4:30p.