Lemmons by Grbic
A Menu of Comfort Food
On the menu at the new Bosnian-American restaurant is a reminder: “Be Happy Life Gave You Lemmons.” Cute, and oh, sooo true. If you haven’t been to the newly-owned and refurbished Lemmons in Bevo Mill, put it at the top of your list. The place opened two months ago, but already the Grbic family has picked up rave reviews for dishing up comfort food in the totally upgraded space.
You may recall Sulejman and Ermina Grbic, whose family has owned and operated Grbic’s, the highly successful Bosnian restaurant for the last 15 years. Now the second generation, Ermin, Erna and Senada, are revitalizing Lemmons, the old neighborhood landmark on Gravois.
The Makeover
During the past three years, the place was gutted down to the brick walls and is now a spiffy family restaurant/sports bar that seats nearly a 100. The old neon signs remain outside and there’s a hint of the past in the revamped version of Lemmon’s traditional fried chicken. The dish is now shown on the menu as “Not Lemmons Fried Chicken.”
The place is a mixture of high and low tables, but the lows we’re all occupied the evening Russ and I were there, so we had to settle for a high—not my favorite. But our placement was worthwhile because of our server, Allison, whose attentive care caused me to think she might be one of the owners. Chef/owner Senada was in the kitchen. Good sign.
At the next table was a military veteran and book publisher, who identified herself as a Facebook friend. I love it when that happens. Whenever I’m out and about, I nearly always find blog/FB readers, which is inspiring enough to keep me writing.
Oh! Those Addictive Balkan Fritters
We started with the Balkan Dipping Board with its half dozen light and addictive fritters known as ustipci. Three sauces hovered nearby: a feta butter (my favorite); roasted red pepper spread (it’s not spicy); and mushroom duxelle. These Balkan balls also come on the Dessert Dipping Board, but with sweet sauces.
I had the vegetable soup, that was flavored as well as any I’ve ever had. Russ had the Chicken Flatbread Pizza, that tasted terrific and was photogenic—I like that in a pizza.
Lemmons’ long association with fried chicken caused Chef Senada to keep it on the menu. She gave the dish her own twist as shown in it’s new name: “Not Lemmons Fried Chicken.”
Lemmons Balkan Dipping Board with three dipping sauces
Flatbread with Babo’s chicken (a treatment developed by Mr. Grbic). Also available is a Balkan sausage flatbread topped with cevapi (a mild, beef sausage), feta butter and mozzarella. Another speciality of the house is the “50-50 Burger”made of half ground beef and half beef bacon.
A hearty, flavorful vegetable soup
Everything in the place sparkles with newness from the multiple televisions and glitzy bar to the Bosnian-inspired menu. The decor may be new, but the cooking is tried and true. In St. Louis or Sarajevo, good comfort food is easily recognized and always enjoyed.
It took the Grbics three years of renovation to give the space its bright, new look.
Lemmons by Grbic, 5800 Gravois in Bevo Mill. Kitchen Hours: Tue-Thu 4p-9:30p; Fri 4p-10p; Sat 12p-10p; Sun 12p-9p. Bar Hours: Tue-Thu 4p-1p; Fri 4p-12a; Sat noon-midnight; Sun noon-10p. Special pricing on Mojito Fridays; Craft Can Tuesday; and for Beer of the Week. There’s a park lot adjacent to the restaurant.
