I have no idea what the Chinese writing says, that lines the doorway at Guo Bin. Though the characters are unreadable to most, they give a hint of the authentic dishes that lie just beyond the restaurant’s inviting red doors. The golden statues guarding the entrance look like angry lions. Actually, they’re zealous foo dogs reminiscent of those I saw years ago in Beijing’s old Forbidden City. By contrast, this is a welcoming entrance to a restaurant long-known for its friendly atmosphere and extensive menu.
Guo Bin is almost hidden from sight to all but the culinary cognoscenti familiar with the Chinese outpost located in the Brentmoor Retirement Community building on Delmar just west of I-170. The kitchen follows the rules of good Chinese cuisine, serving dishes of diverse color, aromatic flavor, and outstanding taste. My fault with many Chinese dishes is that they are too salty or too greasy. They are neither at Guo Bin.
Chinese food has evolved since the 1940’s, when I ate my first Chow Mein carry-out from a white carton with a wire handle. Guo Bin with its white table cloths and large, comfortable chairs is charming and relaxed, a comfortable oasis from the traffic that passes not far from its decorative entrance. What’s more, they’re open seven days a week and will deliver.
Guo Bin Chinese Restaurant, 8600 Delmar. Open: 7 days a week. Mon.-Thu. 11:30a-2p and 5p-9:30p. Fri. 11:30a-2p and 5p-10:30p. Sat. 5p-10:30p. Sun. 4p-9p.